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where it began

Strawberries

     I was born and raised alongside the best patch of wild strawberries in Gustavus. We think it must be a hybrid of a wild and cultivated variety introduced by the first white people to settle the newborn glacial outwash where our town sits. Regardless of their origin, the cabin-sized patch of low growing berries produces the sweetest and reddest berries in town, sometimes 20 gallons in a season. 
     The summer between my junior and senior year of college I squatted in this patch with two other friends, fingers sticky and pink from the sun-warmed berries. We were, as twenty-year-olds so often do, talking about the future in a half-assed-eating-strawberries-between-sentences sort of way.
     “I’ve had this idea since I was eight, but it would be so cool to live here for a year and try to do one hundred percent local food.” I said. This was true, I’d had the idea for a while as an elusive what-if day dream. Then Liam responded. 
     “Name a year, anytime in my twenties I’m in!” 
     The idea slipped from elusive to possible. 
     Our conversation trailed from the berry patch back to the kitchen. How many people would it take? How many could we feed? When would we learn the skills? Really, one hundred percent? Would you use spices? We put the berries in the freezer and made dinner. Conversation was still circulating that night with neighbors around a fire. What about coffee? Alcohol? Could we ferment things without sugar? The next day our friend Tanner walked over with soap berries and a book of interviews with Tlingit elders on traditional harvests to loan me. “This thing really is a mind worm.” he chuckled, handing me the book. We talked for another hour standing on the porch. 
     That week I put off work on my senior thesis to write up a proposal for the local foods project and sent it to ten other people who I knew were also thinking about what to do when they grew up. Awkward unstructured zoom meetings with a rotating semblance of the email list followed. I sat on my too-humid, burr-oak-shaded porch back at school in Minnesota, blabbing at the zoom screen, bouncing around with excitement, at an utter loss for what form this would take or how it would happen. 
     As the burr oak dropped its leaves, the meetings dwindled down to four of us, each wanting to dedicate a whole year to the project. Our idea in the literal sense was easy to outline. To spend a winter only eating calories (spices and vinegar were allowed) that had grown, swam, or walked in Southeast Alaska. From when the sandhill cranes migrated south in the fall until their return North in the spring. We’d spend the summer harvesting and preserving all aforementioned food and eat away at our stores in the winter. 
     The task was daunting. Although we all had varying degrees of experience with subsistence living and Southeast Alaska, our learning curve on boat driving, chainsaw running, garden tending etc. to pull this off was ridiculously steep. We would likely fail. We had to do it with education as our benchmark for success. To learn all the skills our college education did not teach. 
     As we, the core four, became more serious, and were repeatedly faced with the why are you doing this? question from the curious, caring and concerned people in our lives, it became clear there was a whole other layer of knowledge we were hungry for underneath the technical skills. We wanted to learn how to be in community. Not the tight-knit hive mind of 18-22 year old communities we were leaving at schools but the one of grubby kindergarteners and grandparents and gardens and glacial fjords. To see what happened if living in place became our full time job rather than just a consequence of being alive. 
     And so our experiment began. 

 

our guidelines

Linnea Lentfer, Kaia Neal, Ari Romberg, Atticus Hempel

​Our official list of rules - as written and approved by our joint google document in the months before this project began. The unitalicized text is my context and translation for those unfamiliar with the locovore language (presumably everyone reading this).

  • Locally sourced calories  - Spices and vinegar are in, sugar and flour are out, coffee and herbal tea are borderline. Anything we consume with > 0 calories must be grown/harvested by us or gifted, traded or purchased by a friend or neighbor in the Northern Southeast region. We also, with the flow of visitors through the summer and spring, are allowed to eat gifts locally sourced from their respective homes. Kaia’s grandparents sent homegrown popcorn. A college friend harvested honey from his backyard hive. 

  • Share before we store - We live in my grandparent’s cabin. We garden in our parents and close neighbors’ gardens. Access to my parent’s boat and Hank as a captain expanded our fishing, hunting and gathering range to Northern Icy straight and the outer coast. In short all of what we pulled off was a result of some serious mooching on our part and serious gifting on part of our parents and neighbors. As all the carrots and cohos, nagoonberries and neck roasts fueling us for the winter were a result of this generosity, our food stores are not just for our project but also contain all the local goodness that our parents would have grown in the first place had they not been busy helping us out. 

  • Food eating from crane call to crane call -   Since we needed the summer to gather food, we decided to start our local eating in the fall. And since we’d probably need employment the next summer, we’d go until spring. These dates coincided with the sandhill crane migration north and south. Why not spice things up and make our exact start and end dates up to the cranes? 

  • Federal holiday and birthday exceptions: 11 days total: Extra birthday =Wassail, Labor day = Christmas Eve party, Atticus birthday whenever he decides - “Cheat” days or “global” days occur on birthdays or federal holidays where we diverge from the locovore diet. As eating and sharing good food is such a core part of socializing, especially in small town dark cold winters, these days are community motivated. Because the federal government isn’t quite up to snuff with Gustavus holiday traditions and Atticus didn’t have the foresight to be born during the 8 months of local eating we also decided these days were mobile and we could cash them in when needed most. 

  • 10+ years expired is local? - Anya was a big pusher of this rule, with the thinly veiled ulterior motive of passing off all old and expired things from the back of her pantry. Though we never really got full consensus we did end up eating a case of jam from the 1980s which served as our only source of added sugar. 

  • No showers! @atticus - This began as a complete joke. When getting to know Atticus we tested his feral and stinkyness level seeing if he’d agree to bathing only in the sauna. He passed with flying colors and took this rule to heart. Much to our dismay when he started skipping saunas and consequently washed his armpits only twice in all of August. 

within this website

Linnea Lentfer, Atticus Hempel, Hank Lentfer

     In the few months before the project began, Atticus and I would often call and talk in circles about documenting this project. We had grand plans for a monthly newsletter. Collaborating with local newspapers. Then we arrived in Alaska in June and our lives got swamped by a rising river of weedy gardens and halibut gangion lines and neighborhood generosity. We lived, breathed, slept, ate and reeked of local foods. Our lofty dreams for writing were reduced to late-night journal entries- a survival type effort to snatch a few scenes from the glacial torrent of stories flowing through our days 
     This website is built from the tidbits I’ve salvaged from those late-night journals or scraped out of my memory. It’s radically incomplete, little snapshots of the million meaningful moments from the past few months. I’ve organized it loosely by month and tried to provide a mix of general updates, stories and photos. I’m slowly populating it now, after hunting season is over and we finally have space in our lives to write. If you have any burning curiosities, or ideas for what you’d like to see written please don’t hesitate to let me know. If you’d like to be kept up-to-date with what is new each week, subscribe to get my fresh writing sent to your inbox. If you know anyone who’d be interested in this story, please feel free to share this website or any of what’s written here. 

 

A little cabin full of deer fat with a side of stinky, smelly, moldy, fermenting, rotting goo. You will know it’s the right place when the laundry smells so bad it's kept outside. 

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© 2025 by Linnea Lentfer. 

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